This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. The book contains pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts.

The book was released in Augustand is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details. The oxygen sensor is one of the most important elements of the modern fuel injection systems.

Keeping the engine at the stoichiometric level The oxygen sensor is located in the exhaust system of the engine, and senses the oxygen content of the exhaust gases.

The oxygen sensor produces a small voltage signal that is interpreted by the electronic control unit ECU of the fuel injection system. There are a few signs that your oxygen sensor may be failing. In general, it is difficult to diagnose problems with the sensor, unless all of the other components in the fuel injection system have been checked and determined to be operating correctly.

Some of the symptoms of a failed oxygen sensor system are:. Irregular idle during warm-up Irregular idle with warm engine Engine will not accelerate and backfires Poor engine performance Fuel consumption is high Driving performance is weak CO concentration at idle is too high or too low Check Engine light is illuminated.

In general, if the oxygen sensor is not working, the car will be running very poorly, and will also be outputting a lot of harmful emissions. On most BMWs, the engine's computer will give you a warning signal that lights up the Check Engine Lamp if the signal received by the computer is out of it's normal range. For more info on reading these fuel injection codes, see the the Pelican Technical Article: Reading Fuel Injection Fault Codes.

If you disconnect the oxygen sensor and ground it to the chassis, the ECU will think that the car is running really lean, and will try to richen the mixture. At the other extreme, if you disconnect the oxygen sensor, and replace it with a small AA battery that supplies 1.

Needless to say, troubleshooting the complete fuel injection system is beyond this article's scope. If you think that the oxygen sensor may be causing some of your fuel injection problems, it should be replaced. In general, I recommend that you do this every 30, miles.

It's location changed and varied from year to year, but for the most part, it is easy to reach and remove. Figure 1 shows an O2 sensor from and E36 3-Series BMW. You will typically have to jack up the car to gain access to the sensor. See the Pelican Technical Article: Jacking Up for more details. Using a 22mm wrench, simply remove the sensor from the exhaust pipe.

On the E36the sensor is located in a very difficult to reach spot - you may have to use a special deep socket with a slit cut in the side to remove it Figure 2. Figure 3 shows the electrical plug for the O2 sensor - simply rotate the plastic retainer counter-clockwise and the plug should come right off. New O2 sensors should have the same exact plug - ready to attach to your car.

On the E36 3-Series, the plug is located towards the right side of the rear of the transmission. Figure 4 shows the plug being removed. When you remove the O2 sensor, you will probably find it to be black with soot, as shown in Figure 5.

This is normal for an old, worn out O2 sensor. Figure 6 shows the mounting "bung" for the O2 sensor. Install the sensor into the hole, making sure that it is snug tight.

If you have the proper slit-tool and a handy torque-wrench, then tighten it to 40 ft-lbs 55 N-m. It's also a smart idea to add some anti-seize compound to the threads of the plug before you install it. Check the sensor first though, as new ones sometimes come with anti-seize already on the threads. I have found that often the new O2 sensors come with the correct plug, but the cable is way too long.

If this is the case, then secure and tie off the cable, as is shown in Figure 7. Make sure that the cable is not located anywhere near any exhaust components - you don't want the heat melting the cable to the O2 sensor.

Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all. If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.

If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one. Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one. As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

Join us in our BMW E36 Technical Forum Message Board and ask a question to one of our many automotive experts. Check out some other projects from the book: BMW E36 3-Series Technical Articles Floor jack, two jack stands, two wheel chocks, safety glasses, WD, 22mm wrench, 02 sensor deep socket with slit, torque wrench, anti-seize compound, Applicable Models: Need to buy parts for this project?

Click here to order! Looking for more photos? Click to see bonus pictures for this project. Some of the symptoms of a failed oxygen sensor system are: Irregular idle during warm-up Irregular idle with warm engine Engine will not accelerate and backfires Poor engine performance Fuel consumption is high Driving performance is weak CO concentration at idle is too high or too low Check Engine light is illuminated In general, if the oxygen sensor is not working, the car will be running very poorly, and will also be outputting a lot of harmful emissions.

So I just replaced the O2 sens on my '95M yesterday and the whole thing is running better and the CEL went out, but it seems to be running extremely rich according to friends who were following me today when we were going to eat. Said they saw smoke no color indicated and forgot to ask, and that it smelled really rich. Do I need to reset the code in order for it to work proper again even though the CEL went out?

Does the ECM take a few run cycles to relearn things and it'll simmer back down in a matter of days? The only way to know if it is running rich for sure, is to check fuel control using a scan tool or test tailpipe emissions.

Otherwise it could just be cat odor. Hello guys, I have a 97 i, and the engine "fails" when cold, like miss the "burn" in one of the cylinders. After some time, when the engine is almost warm the problem goes away, but I feel like the engine lose performace on the accelerate.

Also on Scanner, it says that the O2 sensors could be bad. Do you think it could really be the sensors?

O2 could be faulty but would not cause a misfire. Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders.

I have a i with a cel code Even when I accelerate it tends to be very sluggish and back fires. Sounds like a lean condition. Check fuel pressures and most importantly check the intake boot AND intake system for leaks, including the PCV system. You're going to have to determine the cause of the misfire. Viktorthe O2 sensor from a 2. I have a question for Pelicanparts The second question isif i get a Bosch O2 sensor with the same 4 wires. Just leave it plugged in, replace when you have time. Bosch does make universal sensors, I haven't had much luck with them.

In theory should be fine. The only thing we didnt change yet is the fuel pump and i dont know if my car have oxygen sensor is the i 24v so we can change it. If you did it all, it would fixed. You are missing something. Re-do the tests I mentioned, relay the results to me. I just bought a i 24v and the car was missfiring.

So we change the plugs the coils 6the tensioners the ping sensors but the car still dosnt drive well. Is like someone pushing it buck. When you are with the first gear and try to go the RPMS are not going more than Is the check engine light on or flashing when the problem is present?

Is the engine using oil? Is the coolant level OK? No engine chk light. At restarting car runs normal.

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Changed plugs,filters,cleaned mas and throttle body. Car feels lagging below rpm. At power surge. The power loss is sporadic.

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Could be an issue with the fuel pump. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality. Hi, I have a i e Then you go down at low rpm and bogs again, and again if you put the throttle to the floor revs up without problems.

DME not flooded, fuel pump checked I have LPG and the problem is similar with both fuels What can I do? I'm sure it's just something that gets wet from under the car but I dont know what. You could have water entering the engine through the intake air ducts. Check if the air filter is wet when this happens. As you can see. Brown socket are original and black socket it's from bosch e34 m50b I am not sure why they are different. You can check with BMW using the part numbers. PARTS CATALOG Porsche BMW Mercedes-Benz Audi Volkswagen Saab Volvo MINI.

QUICK LINKS About Us Careers Pelican Parts, Inc. DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page. This site was designed and produced solely by Pelican Parts. Pelican Parts is not associated with Porsche Cars North America in any manner, except for a mutual appreciation and love of the cars. All pictures and references to the Porsche name, and the car names and shapes are for restoration reference only, and do not imply any association with Porsche. Pelican Parts is not responsible for any typographical errors contained within the site.

Information and technical articles within this website are for reference only. Consult authorized factory manuals when performing repair procedures. By entering this site, you agree to hold Pelican Parts free from any liability arising out of the use of any information contained within. View All E90 Articles. BMW E46 Tech Articles.

Automatic Transmission Fluid Replacement. Oil Filter Housing Gasket Replacement. View All E46 Articles. BMW E36 Tech Articles. View All E36 Articles. View All BMW Tech Articles. Oxygen Sensor Replacement Wayne R. Floor jack, two jack stands, two wheel chocks, safety glasses, WD, 22mm wrench, 02 sensor deep socket with slit, torque wrench, anti-seize compound.

BMW E36 3-Series Replace the rear muffler. Followup from the Pelican Staff: Bot are from year Greetings. Hi I have an Japanese market bmw 93 ia with vanos. And originally hAve a siemens O2 sensor. I check the wiring from the ECU order 1brown. Compared with Bentley electrical diagram shows in this order 1 black. So I am so confused I try to put a bosch oem taken from my e34 and was impossible to attach or connect.

I had to cut bosch sensor wires and put the siemens socket. But doesn't work still working bad. Can you tell me the order of 1 and 1 colors?. I put the list of ecu socket position and both siemens bosch sensor. From ecu harness wires order to socket: I don't have info for foreign vehicles. If you have the Bentley wiring, i would go with that, or contact BMW for the wiring for your specific model.

Hi Nick, I have a 92 nv with k miles on it. When the revs are below rpm and I get back on throttle the car bogs and missfires.

Sometimes ill hear crackling from the cat conv. This winter I have replaced plugs and a bad coilpack as well as the vc gasket. I've narrowed it down to: O2 sensor, coil pack, bad cat, dirty maf or vacuum leak in ccv. What are your thoughts?

Only a few things can cause a misifre, you'll need to see what is missing. I have a issue with my e36 m3, It only happens when you get on the throttle and rev up past rpm. What is happening is when i shift from 1st to 2nd and im at top of 2nd gear shifting to 3rd it seems to fall flat on its face.

I lose all power, but i get no CEL or stalling. If i give it gas it gives the sound of the intake chugging air, but again i dont stall. I have to blip the throttle and down shift back to 2nd gear and pull over on the side of the road.

Once i stop on the side of the road i can start driving again. It does not do this unless i rev it up high into the rpms, if i keep the shifting at about to rpm it drives and pulls hard.

But anything above it bogs down and loses all power. Any thoughts to the issue? Do you have the wiring connection on bosch sensor? There are 4 wires but I want to know what is what. Thanks 2 siemens sensor are different than bosch? And What things changes?

We don't currently have that tech article. If we get a chance to perform the procedure, we will be sure to document it. I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at The repair shop did memtion that the pump pressure was less than usual, but not below limt, but How come that when i put the pedal to the floor the car suddenly picks up acceleration.

I must add, that as the car heats up, at a certain point after 30min of nominal temperature, like a switch is tripped, the problem dissapears as if nothing was wrong. I'm doubting in electrical more than mechanic. What do you think. If it doesn't warm quickly, the thermostat is faulty. If pump pressure is under spec, it is bad. Has to be repaired. I have a i e I've been facing a weird problem which no mechanic could solve: When can is started, idle is stable with slight flickering.

On cold weather, the car runs almost normally, then after 15min, the car looses power when pedal is half way with the car chocking. When pedal is put to the floor, car picks up acceleration as if nothing is wrong. If i slightly lift my foot, car chocks again. O2 sensors checked and operating normally. Hope you can help. So I've recently cut my exhaust young kid doing stupid things on my 96 i and now I'm experiencing my RMPs dropping low and then shooting back up to the spot it was at while driving at a constant pace and then trys to stall.

I believe its my o2 sensor which could be causing the problem? Could be a vacuum leak. I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. I have a i x reg.

What is the part number for the oxygen sensor? What is the year and model of the vehicle? Hi There, I have a i and i got a p code. Can you help me point out which is Bank 2 sensor 1? Im having a difficult time trying to locate it. Also, Should i use a 02 crowsfoot socket or 02 sensor deep socket with slit for this job?

This is the sensor in the rear of the exhaust manifold, near the firewall. Hi, I have a bmw is and I'm just wondering how many o2 sensor this car has and where they are located? I've only located one but I wanna be sure I'm not over looking one. There should be one in the manifold before the catalyst and one in the exhaust after the catalyst. Hi, i have BMW i E36 Auto Coupe. It failed its MOT on lambda emissions. Is this directly to do with the lambda sensors, if so, how many do i have to change and is there anything i need to know ec?

I would need the P-codes to take a guess at what is causing the failure. Hello everybody I have a BMW E36 With M42 engine and I have 2 code and which mean lambda control 1 and knock control test pulse. I have the check engine illuminated,and the light turn off only when I disconnect the battery cables then reconnecting it. Sounds like a fuel control issue.

I would check the engine for vacuum leaks. Check when the fuel trim is skewed, using a BMW scan tool. Sounds like the electrical portion of your ignition switch is faulty.

Hi Pelican Parts, I've got a 99' is that recently occasionally runs rough at idle for a minute or so on cold starts and accelerates a bit erratically also when cold. But the other evening I went to start it and it cranked for a while then coughed and fired but could only maintain rpm for a few seconds then would cut out, and repeated this a few times.

The next day tried it again and it would only crank but not fire. It is regularly serviced. I cleaned the idle control valve but had no success in starting. I will next check the fuel pump relay and will see if I am getting any sparks. Could be a fuel pump or a spark issue. I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Are there any fault codes?

Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose. EGR should not reduce power that much. If it were stuck open, the engine would not idle. No more codes, but still running same poor acceleration Feels like in 3rd-4th at 70mph when it's in 5th.

Back pressure ok 2. Not sure but should rule out the cat"s???? If you raise rpm at throttle-body air noise it seems alot louder than normal. What was backpressure psi? Can't rule out cats without that number. Also occasional loss of power. Engines idles fine and accelerates fine accept for that initial stutter not a backfire but like its missing briefly.

Thinking cam sensor or fuel pump beginning to fail, but car runs fine accept for that initial stutter. Z3 has K miles and well maintained. No fault codes thrown.

Could be a coil starting to fail. They usually show up under that initial snap or heavy loads. I Have a bmw i convertible, right now i have the stock exhaust on the car but i bought an aftermrket muffler to be welded onto the car the mechanic said if he cuts my muffler off to weld the other one on forum trade binary options free paper check engine light will be on and i will have problems with some valve being open, how much of this it true and what exactly is he talking about.

Can you get a description of this valve? It's possible he means the catalytic converter, which if removed would turn on the check engine light. I have a weird issue here as it seems to me like also benh said before that he has.

My is is having trouble with a rough idle and even get stalled. I've free money gambling sites the hoses and have none cracked; and I changed sparks and their wires.

Then I'm going to the next step: O2 sensor and the idle control valve. But, I couldn't find the O2 sensor. Instead, I found a plug, similar to the electrical plug of the sensor, but sealed. I attach a picture. My questions are, regarding your answers to benh, is it possible this particular model came without the O2 sensor? I mean, that it never had one? If not, how can I know if the sealed plug is in the place that corresponds to the electrical plug of the O2 sensor? And in this case, is it a good idea to modify the exhaust pipe to incorporate the hole to plug the sensor?

Or simply it works fine without this sensor in fact, it did? I know that it's not the subject of this thread, but it also had a rattle after start it on, and during it was still cold, at the timing chain.

I changed the tensioner, but now the rattle became worst. I'll try again with this, after changing the idle control valve and, eventually, placing the O2 sensor again.

Is there a "right" position to enter the tensioner bmw oem parts australia its place or is it indifferent since simply it is putted in its place, taking care about each extreme are in theirs? Is it possible it didn't pop up while starting and maintaining over rev by 30 seconds? I apologize in advance if this new subject cannot be treated here; but I couldn't money forex chf pln a thread referred to this specific model.

Thanks a lot for your attention. If it is a US vehicle, it should have an o2 sensor. If missing, it would set a fault code and possible run poorly occasionally. Call our parts specialists, using the last seven of your VIN they can determine if your vehicle had an o2 sensor. Power loss cleared up after icv hose and ccv replacement both times for about 30 miles. Check back pressure, as I noted earlier. Bad hose at icv replaced and cleaned moves back forth ok, ran smooth aprox 30 miles 2.

Replaced ccv and hoses good how much money does venus williams make a year 30 miles 3. New plug's NGK BKR6EQUPbremi boots and fuel filter, both throttle body gaskets no change 4. New maf boot and hoses spread betting shares wiki ok ran good again for about 30 miles 5.

New intake gasket checked replaced all vacuum in around manifold. A pop in the exhaust indicates a timing issue or excessive back pressure. I would check exhaust back pressure to start. If desk top stock market ticker, check engine mechanical timing. Since I have had 3 new oxygen sensors fitted, now needing another.

I am told there are 4 on this model? Being a lady not particularly techy, is this correct pse? Your vehicle does have four oxygen sensors. Ok on my bmw is i changed the o2 sensorcoolant tempature sensor and black tempature sensor but im still getting the code for the coolant tempature sensor. My car has been surging since i got it and even after changing these i still have the surging idle from to rpms and then back to What is the fault code number?

You need to test the cooling sensor circuit to the DME. You could have bad wiring. I replaced DME but it just cranks any ideas? What gasket was burnt? Are there any faults in the DME? Does it crank over? Is the battery OK? The whistling could be a faulty crankcase breather. HII HAVE A BMW TI 1. The engine may not be warming up fast enough.

Try replacing the thermostat. I have i BMW the engine goes off while in motion it does that after 5km ,i have changed the crankshaft sensor and exhoust sensor but it has not changed,what could be the problem.

Hard to say without knowing what the code is. Could be a vacuum leak or a faulty input to the DME. Hie nick ,Yahh their is no bung hole at the exhaust. Then it either didn't have an O2 or the sensors and exhaust were removed and changed. Hie,I've my i e36 bmw of ,my problem is it seems their is no 02 sensor mounted on the exhaust,where else can I find it,from the manifold to the back their is nothing mounted,now the car is losing power with bad idling,cannot accelerate,plse help.

Did you check the areas shown in this tech article? Are the bung american binary options brokers association welded shut?

Hey I have a question. I have a 08 bmw i. I recently had the engine replaced. Car ran good for 3 days. Then started misfiring on random cylinders. Changed all spark plugs ignition coil. Had some wiring done on oxygen sensor.

Car still misfires when on idle. If I leave car on idle for too long the engine floods with what appears to be fuel and a lot of smoke comes out the back. Codes currently are 2CA0 and 29CC im already in on this repair and need some help.

I need the last seven of the VIN to look the codes up. Do you have P-codes as well? Hi Nick work from home typing job in pune BMW i does not idle after I have changed the fuel pump and characteristics of the polish stock market correlations, where must I check or what might be the problem.

Check if fuel pressure is correct. Hi Nick I have a BMW E36 i it can't drive more than kmph.

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There is no engine warning light, what might be the problem or what need to be checked. Check the fuel delivery system and check if the exhaust back pressure is too high. Hi I have a i E36 with an idling which is up and down, misfiring and does not run more than kmph. Is the check engine light on? Check for vacuum leaks as well. Hi I have i E36 with an unstable idling, misfiring and can't run faster than kmph what might be the problem.

Hi I have got i E36 which is idling very bad with misfiring and it can't drive more kph what might be the problem. Hello Nick thanks for your response. I took the coil grounded an additional spark plug and cranked there was fire ,, So I assumed the problem was fuel, when I removed the fuel rail 4 was noticeably dry.

I replaced the injector. The CEL comes on after running for a while, however the P has not returned. I would confirm 4 has spark, the coil should be able to produce 20Kv. Once you confirm that. If it is, the DME may be at fault. Let me know what you find. I forgot to mention learn commodity option trading basics I got two codes P and P I also replaced the fuel filter and pump fpa forex gold trader I thought it was due to low fuel pressure.

Cleared the codes and restarted. It did seemingly run a little better, but still misfiring in cylinder 4. Spark is present, but no fuel. The P may shut the injector off due to a misfire. Check spark and compression on that cylinder. I recently purchased a BMW i that has been garaged.

The previous owner told me it has a misfire but was diagnosed to be the CCV valve. Taking his word for it, i replaced the valve. Only I have now discovered that there is no Fuel delivered to number 4 cylinder.

There is spark from the coil, I replaced the injector, examined the harness, replaced all vacume hoses. The car starts up but there is a noticeable miss. Any idea what may be the problem? How did you determine there is no fuel to that cylinder? Hi, I have a bmw i, for some time now Forex time zone widget been having some trouble with my car turning off while I'm trying to warm the car up in the morning.

Any ideas what it can be? Screeching is likely a work belt. Shutting off could be a faulty sensor or fuel pump. Why did you replace the MAF? I have an is,and i have a strange problem: I have also a big fuel consumption: When the engine is warm, in idling it does not run smooth, it has ups and down higher revs then lower, by itself. What could be the problem? Nick Question I noticed for sometime now my BMW E60 when its cold it's sluggage, and when I desk top stock market ticker to a complete stop at a light i feel a slight jerk that a passenger will not feel and very light when the car is cold.

Any recommendation,, the car has 93 thousand miles,and a couple of years back i had the transmission fluid replaced because it was leaking from the sleeve, if they did replace it or emptied it out to do the repair and then pumped it back in. Could be a failing fuel pump. Getting russian broker binary options demo account every other day after clearing CEL on my 98 M3.

The code comes up at P Is it possible the O2 sensor is beginning to go bad and causing this code? You would likely have an o2 sensor fault.

When you command the secondary air on, check that the o2 does in fact hold lean. Have a bmw Mini Cooper s. Have had a P code which is heater circuit bank 1. Have replaced the O2 sensor but code come back immediately on restart. Has 12v and earth at the plug and at the sensor end, fuse is ok so not sure what else to check Does the battery volts supply to the heater have good voltage under a load?

Hi I have a 98 i it wont rev over rpm and drives like crap. Its showing code I have taken out both o2 sensors and tested them and theyr fine so I looked further into it and found that theres no power coming from the loom to the sensors with the ignition on iv checked all the fuses I can find with non blown could it be a relay? Then check exhaust backpressure.

Can a faulty air sensor valve in a BMW 3 series cause a car to go to a limp mode?. First check the transmission fluid level to be sure it is correct. Then check the transmission ECM for fault codes. Is the check engine light ON? I would start by checking the vehicle for fault codes. Update on the o2 monitor stating Not Ready for About 2 years. Nick you recommend me to start Off replacing the Termostat to day trading sso if it was causing The car not to warm up properly and o2 not changing To ready,,Guess what after replacing the Termostat The 02 changed to ready: Now I Only have one monitor that is stating not Ready and is actually forex business easy & simple The CAT so far I drove 74 miles and it hasent Changed to ready yet, westfield new years day trading hours advice.

It's a E60 m Is there a misfire? If so, it will prevent the cat monitor from running. Nick Question on Replacing the thermostat on my i m54, do I need to remove the Electric Fan to remove and replace the Thermostat?

My car has the Electric Fan not the Clutch Fan. Also do you happen to know whats the torque specification when placing the new thermostat assembly? See this tech article: Check engine light is off and the shop told me to run it a hundred miles before retesting, unfortunately, I have run it plus miles, checked twice and monitors all three have not reset.

Mechanic is scratching his head - said something about faulty memory. I am at my wits end and need to get this through emissions and back on the road. What could be the problem with the monitors? Is the vehicle taking a long time to warm up? If so, the monitors will not run. If it is, there may be a misfire or fuel trim issue stopping them from running.

I have a check engine light on and replaced both front 02 sensors and the light is still on. My mechanic tells me that I have a shorted wire on the Engine harness for O2 sensorwhich is actually the wire that runs from the engine to the back and connects to the O2 sensor by the catalytic.

I've been looking foer that part and have not been able to find it fake binary options account the dealer or junk yard. Give our parts specialists a call at and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need. Thanks for your reply back. Correct meant the o2 Reading Not Ready. But the other Monitors do Read Ready. The car is a 04 i and it done take about Min to warm up and acuple of years back A friend of mines put the computer on it and told me That the thermometer was going to need to Be replaced, but I never did it.

Should I start Here as in replacing it to see if at some point The o2 will change to Ready? Try the thermostat first. Replace it, get the engine to my forex blueprint up correctly.

That may solve it. Need Help on the Co2 Issue on my car it has been about 2 to 3 years that my Co2 states NOT READY but it Passes State Inspection. No Engine Light and No Fault Code. It's a i and I would like to resolve the Issue.

I just don't know if to replace all 4 Co2 when the issue could just be one or if a Co2 is Disconnected, don't know were to start trouble shooting it. I think you mean O2 sensors are not ready. This could be an issue with the spy options after hours trading warming up too slowly or a bad Opinion about the experienced traders binary options. I have a i.

I was getting the code for all four of my o2 sensors, and both cam shaft sensors. I replaced all of the o2 sensors along with the intake cam shaft sensor.

The top 2 o2 sensors are still showing a code. Could that be because I have not replaced the exhaust cam shaft sensor yet? Would that affect how the o2 sensors read? Is the code for the circuit or the signal function? The camshaft sensor should not cause o2 faults. Hello, I have an e36 is with a M44B19 block. I just recently replaced the two o rings inside the oil filter housing since it leaked. I've also replaced the disa valve, idle control valve, spark plugs and cleaned the fuel injectors.

However, it still had a rough idle when stationary. It would sit around rpm and runs rich in emissions. I would assume it could be a faulty thermostat since my temp gauge sometimes won't sit on the middle.

Had the o2 sensors cleaned but it maybe faulty as well. Hi I have a ic 1. No, they will be different part numbers, likely due to wire length. Hi- went to have the inspection done on my Z4 that has automated trading forex, milesand failed. Emissions test results indicate both the O2 sensor status and the Catalyst as not ready.

I've had the car for about a year and have put miles on it, no work done since right before I bought it when the battery was replaced.

Is this a reset issue or does something need to be replaced? Try driving it for a town, then highway trip. The monitors should set.

If they don't, there may be an issue about to set a fault code. Thanks for your reply. Went to workshop and did the diagnose and it appears O2 SENSOR FAULT CURRENTLY PRESENT.

I bought the BOSCH 4 wire o2 sensor and now the foreman said the wire length is different with the currently plugged on my car. Will the wire length be a problem here? Car is 94 model and only has 1 o2 sensor. On the wire's length, can I just plug it in without doing any alteration on the length? If it is a little longer, it should be OK.

Just be sure the wiring is routed safely. Maybe its been answered but I have a 95 how many oxygen sensors do I have? I have heard everything from 1 to 4. And can you post a link to the sensor you would suggest I use? I believe you have 2, one pre and one post.

They can help you find the right part. Update to last post. I've read somewhere maybe here car can lose power caused by: Failing O2 sensor 3. Clogged catalytic box Sometimes, my car will lose power after the engine get warm. While its in the cool state, the engine will run smoothly.

Are all points I stated up there can be real for the problem i had? Lose power after engine runs at least half an hour. Somemore but cant remember. Could be a fuel pump issue or misfire. I would also perform a fuel delivery system test. Thanks for your fast reply.

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If the o2 sensor will only cause a little difference in fuel comsumption, what is the possible problem for my high fuel consumption? Also, do i need to reset the car after change the o2 sensor or anything?

How to reset it? High fuel consumption could be too high of fuel pressure, a misfire or a leaking fuel injector. My BMW Z3 1. Can this be the cause of vibration? Some videos of the car: And lately, my FC is about 5 liters only 10km ONLY. Can this be the reason on why my FC is that high? Also, can the FC problem solved once I replace the O2 sensor? Is FC - fuel consumption? The o2 could lower fuel mileage, but not a great amount. Oxygen Sensors,Camshaft Sensors etc,etc. I just replaced both of those parts but the car still isn't shifting in the way it should.

Though the car is performing a little better the engine does sound heavy when I put the foot down so can you advise me as o what other parts may need to be replaced?? Update to last message. Mileage on the car is K, have no idea when was the last time replaced those two oxygen sensors, probably never. Hi to everybody, I have a good question about my M3 US version, the problem is that the car runs like i, no power, checked for the fuel pressure 3.

Gas mileage is 16, 17 mpg city and 23mpg hwy, I consider that's little bit to much for M3 manual transmission. Do you think that should I replace the other two oxygen sensors, post cat?! Can they make this problem? Post-catalyst oxygen sensors will not create a low power issue. Have to checked exhaust backpressure? Th white smoke during start only cold is likely condensation in the exhaust, which is normal. Is the cooling system low?

White smoke is likely coolant. I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty. Hello, I have a i and my fuel consumption is really bad, I have filled the gas tank to full with premium fuel and all I have driven it is 4 kilometers 2. I have already replaced the Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Spark plugs although when replacing them I noticed a rust coloured sort of build up on one of the ignition coilscrankshaft position sensor, and my mass airflow sensor and my car does not start up easily, I am also aware that my valve cover gasket needs to be replaced because I can smell the oil burning, could a bad O2 sensor be the cause of the bad fuel consumption thanks.

This could be a fuel leak or an engine misfire. If the engine is running poorly, check each cylinder for a misfire. If you locate a misfire, check for spark, fuel injector pulse and compression on the bad cylinder and a few good ones. There are four sensors. They can help you find the right parts.

Nick- Firstly, thanks for all your patience and help on Pelican Parts. I'm not too sure if this is the appropriate place to ask this question, but here it goes. Anytime that it rains light or heavy or when I wash my engine bay, or if there is moisture on the ground in form of puddles or just splash back from drivers ahead of me, the car goes into "handicap mode". There is virtually no throttle response in the lower rpms.

I have to pump the gas pedal in order for it to rev up so I look like an incompetent fool trying to start from 1st gear at a stop light. If I am able to maintain rpm aboveeverything works fine. Once the RPMs drop belowI continually need to pump the pedal in order to get an ignition response. Only code the DME throws is an oxygen sensor. Do you think a faulty Oxygen Sensor is to blame for such sporadic behavior? Penny for your thoughts. Not likely that the O2 sensor would cause such a hesitation.

I would start by checking for water intrusion, if that is the indicator of when the problem occurs. Check the E-box for water, if the DME is getting wet, it could cause your issue.

When i unscrew maf sensor a little it works out air flow and it runs just fine but if i have it screwed all way down like it suppose to be maf sensor it jumps up and down and doesnt run to great,. I'm still not sure what you are unscrewing. The electrical connector or are you pulling the sensor out of the duct?

This is not a test that means anything to me. So the result is null. IF you are having an idle issue, look for broken intake air boots, vacuum leaks and fuel delivery issues.

When you unscrew what? Hi, I have a 03 bmw ci. I have car revving problems in idle, EML on and losing power in lower gears. Got it checked at garage and told me a 02 sensor needed replacing. I had a few different people look at it and cannot figure it out. Also ABS lights coming on intermittely at various speeds with a scrathing noise underneath the front of the car.

Could be a faulty throttle control module. Hi, I have a i E36 European version. A couple of months ago it started to develop a rare stalling situation where the car on rapidly release of the accelerator or hard braking could shut down if you didn't pump the pedal and try to recover it this happened occasionally. I've already changed spark plugs and cleaned the injectors.

Recently, the car alternator started to fail radio turned off and dashboard lights started to turn on and off specially ABS and battery light came on.

The car shut down while I was on traffic but I was able to start it again. The next morning it wouldn't start. I wanted to know if the previous stalling situation could have been produced by a poor alternator that was starting to fail, or should I be looking for something else. Also, the computer showed that two of the ignition coils failed, but on a manual test there was no sign of a failing coil and after resetting the computer, the codes didn't come up again.

Sure, if voltage drops, lets say along with RPM, the engine will stall. Please help me to udnerstand more about "pending code"? Right now, garage ppl checked and there is no code. Just only shows two items "NOT READY" and they asked to keep driving. Do you know anything about "driving cycle"?

A drive cycle is what a specific vehicle requires to run emission monitors. Each vehicle can vary. A pending code is a test that failed, yet not enough to set a light. How long should I drive to reset the emmision monitors. I drove around miles already.

Do I need to follow "driving cycle"? Garage ppl check three times already and NO CODES; only "NOT READY" for both O2 sensor and Evaporative System. If it hasn't reset in miles there may be a pending code, blocking the process. I would check for pending fault codes. I have "Engine Service Soon" Light ON. Fixed it by replaced the "intake manfold actuator"; LED off and no more codes but "Oxygen Sensor" and "Evaporative System" are bth not READY.

Garage ppl told me to keep driving so car will learn. What should I do? The vehicle has to be driven to reset the emission monitors. Have you checked for fault codes?

I would assume the MAF is not your issue. You may have a vacuum leak or fuel delivery issue. Just had to replace a faulty injector on my i but the engine is still rough on idle before evening out. The mechanic mentioned that the oxygen sensor was probably contaminated - will this wear off or I will I need to clean or replace the sensor now?

O2 should not cause rough running on one cylinder. I would check for a misfire on that cylinder, spark, fuel, compression. I just bought a BMW ti that was running rough no power, backfires, etc. I replaced the belts, spark plugs gapped at. Now it won't start and backfires when attempting to start. Since I've confirmed all 4 cylinders are receiving fuel, spark and air, I am assuming the problem is being caused by a bad sensor and or a bad ECM? If you have all items needed to start, it should.

It's possible engine timing is off. Could be a faulty coolant temp sensor or thermostat. I would start there. So my ci bmw service engne lights pops ouy and they. The fault code will note which sensor it is. Could be a faulty fuel pump or ignition system. Yes, i the battery is disconnected the emission monitors with reset. Drive the vehicle for a day then return for an inspection. If I keep the RPMs above 1k the car runs fine. But if the car's RPMs fall below 1k the engine light comes on and it retards the engine so it can only be limped along.

Pulling over and shutting the car completely off resets the degraded engine light and it will stay off until the RPMs fall below 1k again.

I recent had the plugs done in the car to fix a stutter when accelerating and roughly a month later it started doing this. Any thoughts on whats wrong or where to start? I should also mention the weather here when it started doing this is to celcius. COuld be a vacuum leak or an engine misfire. I just rebuilt my vanos and replaced my valve cover.

When I pull the vapor return hose from the front of the VC and cover it with my thumb the noise completely stops. When I turn the car off it makes a Chewbacca noise. I am wondering if the o2 sensors on my exhaust heads will trigger the ccv?? Just wondering because the wires to this o2 sensors were the only other thing I touched. If the breather valve is making noise it is likely faulty. I would check crankcase vacuum and replace the valve if it is out f spec.

Hello I have a 96 is and I'm pulling a p and p code. Could this be two faulty o2 sensors since the the one pre cat is coming up?

I would repair the o2 sensor fault code. Then see if the catalyst efficiency fault code returns. Two bad o2s at the same is unlikely, unless of course they are damaged from contamination or impact.

Hi, i am driving a bmw i and the car runs fine but sometimes when i press the throttle to go fast a little bit the car shakes a bit but mot hard as if someone pushed the car it happens from time to time and also happens sometimes when i take my foot off the gas instantly, what could this be.

And i have another questions, bmw here in egypt told me you dont change the transmition oil ever unless u have a problem with my transmission and the car is 85, km so far is that true or not.

Thank you in advance for your help i really appreciate it. You could have an engine misfire or a drivetrain issue. I would check or fault codes to start. You should be able to pay for trans service if you need it.

Find an independent mechanic willing to do it if the dealer will not. I have a with many problems with cutting out or not even starting at all. It has occasionally cut out when in idle for a a few minutes every second day.

There was a problem with one of the fuel pumps but it has since been replaced and it's still happening. Please let me know if you have any ideas ASAP. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. If it is faulty again, I would check it for contamination. Hi there pelican staff. I'm living in Indonesia and have purchased a e36 i with 2.

I have rebuilt the vanos system and changed out the cam and crank sensors and timed the engine accurately. I had a look at the exhaust manifold and cat. There appear to be no oxygen sensors pre and post cat. Unplugging the mass air flow sensor makes no variation in performance. There are to connectors on top of the fuel rail. Are these for the bank 1 and 2 sensors? Having looked it appears the plug bolts in the manifold are factory.

Shall I replace the mass air flow sensor and forget about the o2 sensors.

Or replace all The car was assembled jakarta indonesia. Adding fuel manually to the intake cures the bogging which tells me that she's running lean. I cannot offer much insight as I do not know what that vehicle came equipped with. You can check the basics, fuel, ignition and compression to start.

Hi i have a bmw i se. Think its e36 model yr It seems to drive fine but when i come to stand still the revs drop really low to the point car shakes as if about to stall. The revs will hover up and down below 1rpm but once moving is fine again. Seems worse when cold and have noticed it does it less when i fill up with super unleaded instead of unleaded. Throttle body has been cleaned twice still does it and nothing comes up on diags. Could be a fault in the idle air valve or the crankcase breather.

With no fault codes, you'll have to test these items individually. Hello, i am the owner of a i, but my wiring harness is modified by previous owner What i think ive done wrong is the lambda sond, i had to guess which cables where right. Do you have a diagramme for this, or can you tell me the correct colours? We don't have your vehicle here in the US, so I don't have the wiring.

I would check that the heater on the o2 is wired properly first. Once you get those two wires out of the way, you can sort out the other two by trial and error. I have a BMW M3 that i purchased about a month ago. IT then started misfiring on cylinder 5 i checked and it has spark and fuel.

You will have to perform a cylinder leak test to see where the compression is going. Once you identify the source of the leak, you can plan a course of action. Could be alternator, fuel system, plugged exhaust. Dear sir, Kindly note that i have bmw e36 is and i chaned the engine to i now iam facing a problme which is when i try to drive the the RPM don't go more than 5 and note that back achs is for does i have to change it whith adeferent one or there is any solousin for this problqm.

Check if the exhaust is restricted. Hi have got a bmw i compact with the 1. I would also check fuel trim when the problem is present and not. This will help you decide if it is a fuel related problem. Then I would perform a fuel delivery system test. HEY GOOD AFTERNOON EVERY ONE I HAVE BMW I 2. Sounds like the ABS s activating from a bad wheel speed sensor but it's hard to tell without have any information about the car such as the year. I have the bmw i n i check the s park plugs n got no spark can you help me.

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key on? I would check the crank sensor. As soon as I connect the O2 relay the input power for the coil disappears, thus the relay is unable to function without the coil.

Is this normal during initial startup, because the book says its an open loop during startup, then does the DME pulse the swithchedground to energize the relay during idle. Is my DME bad If I do not get power at operating tempt. I have to go by memory, I haven't worked on a i in a while, there are very few left around here.

The o2 heater relay will be activated immediately after starting. It should run when the engine is on to maintain oxygen sensor operation. What are you trying to fix, fault code or symptom?

Hi, I have a bmwi. The stop when safe and service immediately check light came on, and the car refuses to accelerate above rpm. There can be many faults that set this message. I would guess it could be a misfire or transmission issue. Just got a is BMW. It consume gas like nothing.